The best Japanese curry rice place in Taipei.
Is becoming a memory.
Before grad school, I had a random freelance job. I was getting paid to dine at restaurants and document my experience. By no means am I a food blogger or culinary expert of any kind. Freelance work sometimes happens for no reason (aside from the need for extra cash). I’ve always enjoyed discovering new places and sharing them on Facebook (when I still used my account). And for a couple of years, all I posted was photos of curry rice.
Yes. Many friends complained about my Facebook wall of curries. Making them hungry in the middle of the night. There’s no perfect time when there are so many different time zones. Yet many friends would also send me articles of curry rice rankings or new places in Taipei asking if I’ve been. They would often suggest we have curry rice if we were to grab lunch/dinner.
This was all great for some time until I realized my weight was close to 100 kgs. I started hitting the gym and was actively trying to change my lifestyle to a healthier one. Starch on starch was not the balanced diet I was aiming for so I left curry rice completely out of my diet for almost 6 months. I soon realized I could have a cheat day every week.
There’s a certain ranking of curry places in my own opinion, yet one place has always been on top, 寅樂屋 Torarakuya.
It has a delightful process of waiting for a table in front of a sliding door, the smell of the curry stimulating saliva, walking into a dimly lit yet inviting space, being surrounded by an old wooden structure and antiques, listening to what was playing on the record player, carefully sitting down in a tight yet cozy table and then taking a sip of ice-cold water when the menu arrives.
All of this preparing you for what was to come, the best Japanese curry rice in Taipei city.
You instantly slow down and start to notice more detail while making the simple decision of the only two curries they offer. The whole place accommodates around 10 people, including a few seats at the bar. Which I think is great if you're visiting alone. I’ve had many happy memories there over the years, either enjoying a meal with friends or when I need a pick me up for the week.
Then I got this message a few days ago.
Waking up in the middle of the night thinking something bad might have happened to my friend (who says they have bad news but leaves you there wondering?). Only to learn that 寅樂屋 Torarakuya was going to close next year. My favorite curry rice place. Somewhere I won’t be able to visit again. Soon.
I’m no stranger to coping with loss. I don’t even think this compares to losing my luggage in London, a terrible breakup or losing a close friend to illness. It’s merely one restaurant out of a million options. Right? At least they decided to announce this and give us ample time to say a proper farewell. I don’t use Facebook anymore but I still felt the need to send a dozen messages to people I know who enjoy 寅樂屋 Torarakuya as much as I do about the news. Most already knew.
So I decided to come say goodbye.
Waiting for the red light across the street, I noticed myself trying to take as many mental notes about this experience as I could. Taking my time staring at the building, the posters, the lampshades, even the cracks on the wall. Trying to scan every inch of 寅樂屋 Torarakuya just so I can have more to remember.
Then I came to realize, I wasn’t the only one there doing this exact thing. At least one guy at the bar and another one inside was slowly chewing on their food while gazing at the interior. Maybe they didn’t know and it was all in my head. To me, it felt like we were all there to pay our respects.
I already knew the drill but they were out of my favorite beef curry rice so I got the pork and chicken curry rice. Ordered an extra sunny side up egg and miso soup to complete the meal. Mixing the curry with rice before every bite, something I learned watching Japanese friends eat, each soft clink the spoon made on the ceramic bowl felt like a countdown. I slowly chewed with each breath, feeling the rice on my tongue swimming in curry.
I felt better. I was prepared.
I finished my meal quietly, while the staff would come and refill my glass of iced water every so often. I stood up, paid for my meal, confirmed they were closing and looked around the room. I opened the door, letting the afternoon sunshine in, blinding me a bit.
Maybe this is how we treat each encounter in life. Maybe we function better when we discover the constraints. Maybe we appreciate everything more when it is limited. Maybe I’ll find another Japanese curry rice place.
One thing is for sure. Thanks for all the good memories.
再見，寅樂屋。(Goodbye, Torarakuya)
